3) Monkfish Liver Torchon, Benu
You know those rare moments where every element in a dish brings out nuances of the main component that would otherwise go unnoticed? You know those even rarer moments when the wine also brings out a flavor in the dish that would be lost without it? Where the primary component, the set, and the wine form a culinary trifecta? That was my experience with this dish. The battle that plays out in your mouth between salty and sweet, rich and refreshing, and creamy and crisp is epic and so compelling that after a 15 course tasting menu, I went back the next night to order that same dish a la carte. In a single bite I was transformed from someone who had never even heard of monkfish liver, to a monkfish liver fanatic with uncontrollable cravings. To read more about that dinner, check out my full account of my night at Benu.
Tags: Corey Lee, fine dining, soma, Top 10 of 2010
Rating: 
I really wasn’t expecting much the first time I walked into Benu for dinner. I mean, really what would there be to expect? Sure Corey Lee spent eight years at the French Laundry, four of which were spent as chef de cuisine, and yeah maybe he won a James Beard Award for Rising Star Chef of the Year. But I guess I’m just not really impressed by, you know, things like experience and public recognition. And c’mon, only fifteen courses on the tasting menu? I’m sorry but if there aren’t at least 19 courses, I’m generally not satisfied…Continue Reading
Tags: 100 best of the bay, Corey Lee, fine dining, soma
When asking fellow foodies how they would describe the dining experience at Benu, a friend of mine, well-versed in the art of fine dining, described it simply as, “The Asian Laundry.” However, after dining there on several occasions, I found this label to be a bit unfair as I wasn’t drawing parallels, but rather, I was noticing the glaring differences: the atmosphere and table settings at Benu are stark and more austere than the welcoming, cottage feel of the Laundry; the tasting menu is made of 15 courses which express Chef Lee’s Korean heritage, rather than 9 courses that communicate the restaurant’s sense of place; a feeling of grandeur is created by openly displaying Benu’s impressive, imposing kitchen, versus the quaint mystery hidden behind the closed doors at the Laundry…Continue Reading
Tags: 100 best of the bay, Corey Lee, fine dining, soma
Rating: 
I would skip the food car on Amtrak and take the RN74 any day of the week. The restaurant was clearly decorated with the Route Nationale 74 (french road/railway that goes through Burgundy) theme in mind. With luggage tags around the napkins, numbered tables, french dialogue playing in the bathrooms, and a wine board that actually flips like the signs in a train station, the attention to detail (at least in terms of design) is impressive to say the least…
Tags: 100 best of the bay, california cuisine, cocktails, fine dining, french american cuisine, michael mina, soma
Rating:
You know when you buy a sandwich and you say to yourself, “Okay, I’m only going to eat half now, and I’ll save the other half for dinner tonight,” but then the sandwich is so magically delicious that, after that 1st half, you stare at the rest in agony trying to decide if you should go for it or not? Like, people could be talking to you and really you’re just nodding and thinking, “Man, am I gonna eat this sandwich? Maybe just 1 bite…”…
Tags: california cuisine, lunch, pastries, sandwiches, soma
An excerpt from my latest SF Examiner article:
Is it a pirate ship? Is it an oceanic habitat? Is it a warehouse sprinkled with a few tables, posing as a fine-dining restaurant? Or is it simply a place to kick back after a long day of work for a drink and a solid meal? After visiting Anchor & Hope, an unassuming restaurant tucked away on a side street in SOMA, I’m convinced that it’s all of the above.
This is not the sort of restaurant where you sit back in your seat, sip your whiskey rocks, and let the mood lighting ease you into the setting – the second you step foot inside, the spacious, barge-like environment embraces you head on. From the wooden rafters, the lengths of rope hanging from the ceiling, to the lamps painted to resemble giant eyeballs, it’s clear that you’re here for a deep-sea culinary adventure.
Dive in…
If you’d like to read the full article, please go here.
Tags: california cuisine, seafood, soma
Rating:
Luce, I’m sorry to have to say this, but you’re all about the presentation. You’re that chick who is great to have as arm candy for the night, but good luck getting into a meaningful relationship with her. Great looking decor, great looking bar, beautifully presented food. But, I think you should spend a little less time making the food look pretty and a little more time thinking about the flavors you’re putting on the plate…
Tags: 100 best of the bay, american food, fine dining, Michelin-rated restaurant, soma
