Rating: 5 out of 5 stars

Think fast: who is the person that makes the best cookie you’ve ever had? I’d bet cold hard cash that you’re about to throw down for your mom…although your grandma may also be a contender. Hell, maybe you’d even say yourself! But guess what? You’re wrong. It turns out that your mom doesn’t make the best cookies. Anthony does.

Well, that may not be entirely fair to say considering Anthony (Lucas) only makes about 15 different flavors, all of which fall into the realm of what he calls “simple cookies.” Think of the “classic” or “nostalgic” variety: the standard Chocolate Chip baked in your home oven using the recipe on the back of a bag of Nestlé’s. It may not be a French macaron, but when it comes to “standards” Anthony is the Sinatra of cookies: simply the best.

Now, if you’re thinking to yourself, “Man, that’s a bold statement,” let me tell you that I hear ya and totally get where you’re coming from. Even for me, making that claim is a bit disarming because, I mean, it’s not like some exotic sea creature that you only taste once in your lifetime. It’s a freaking cookie! I’ve probably eaten thousands! So yeah, you should know that before landing on such a strong opinion, I had to work through some weird emotions – like feeling stuck in a state of disbelief and utter certainty at the same time.

Even now, it’s still hard for me to wrap my head around the fact that after more than a quarter-century, one bite of the Toffee Chip destroyed everything I knew about cookies; it was crispy on the outside, soft on the inside, still warm, perfectly sized, sweet-but-not-too-sweet, and melt-in-your-mouth delicious. Trust me when you have that first bite, you too will understand that when it comes to cookies, there’s really no competition.

BUT WHY?!!! I don’t understand it at all. I mean, they look like your garden variety cookie, so you certainly wouldn’t guess it by their appearance. And, they’re not like, say, the Humphry Slocombe of the cookie world, stickin’ it to the man and challenging dessert norms with crazy flavors. As far as flavors go, the selections are relatively traditional – think: chocolate chip, oatmeal raisin, with a couple of twists like Cookies n’ Cream. So what is it? Hoping to uncover the secret behind the magic, I stopped by to get some answers.

Although they explained that extreme attention to detail is taken at all times, like making sure every cookie in every batch is up to their impeccably high standards by smelling and tasting them as a sommelier would do with wine, there wasn’t much to tell. Apparently it really is simple: all of their ingredients are well-sourced, and the recipes are the result of a single man who has worked at perfecting his craft through methodical experimentation for over 10 years.

No tricks; no secret ingredients; nothing you couldn’t do at home. Well, that’s what they say, but I don’t believe ‘em. I’ve always known there was a secret, and hearing their answers just confirmed what I knew all along: Anthony has magic in his hands, and that’s why every bite is so damn good.

Anthony’s Cookies
1417 Valencia St
(between 25th St & 26th St)
San Francisco, CA 94110
(415) 655-9834
http://www.anthonyscookies.com

The post Anthony’s Cookies: So Good, Even Santa is a Regular appeared first on KelsEats.

Geranium Ice Cream, white chocolate, wild huckleberry, black pepper – Sons & Daughters

Rating: 5 out of 5 stars

I’ve been to Sons & Daughters twice over the years, first in 2010 when they were relatively new, and again in 2011 after they’d received their first Michelin star. Both times the food was tasty and modern, with a fairly unique approach to hyper-local, ingredient-driven cuisine. I left both meals feeling generally happy with what I had experienced, but in the back of my mind there was something missing; I felt as though the restaurant wasn’t reaching its full potential and that, with a few small tweaks, those meals could have been memorable instead of relatively unremarkable. That all changed last Sunday when, on my third visit to Sons & Daughters, I experienced a meal that wasn’t just remarkable, it was flawless.

Whoooooaaaa, I know, flawless is a pretty strong word. But I assure you it’s no exaggeration. When you find yourself in my shoes, picking apart an 8-course meal in search of any little mistake, and all you can come up with is, “Well the halibut was totally moist, but maybe it could’ve been just a liiiiittle bit more moist?”… you’ve just had a flawless meal. The flavors were delicate but pronounced, the execution impeccable, and the plating more beautiful than I had previously remembered.

That said, what really made this meal extraordinary for me was its novelty, both in ingredient and approach. Something as common as a roasted golden beet was reinvented into something original, all without becoming overly complex or intellectual. I mean, how often are you surprised and swept off by beets? In a way it reminded me of Coi, in that each dish is so seemingly simple yet so well conceived that, when executed perfectly, it goes far beyond what you’d expect. Sons & Daughters has hit its stride, bringing a surprisingly fresh and modern perspective to the garden-inspired tasting menu. So what changed?

Probably the biggest change is that, over the past year, 90% of the dishes featured on the tasting the menu have come from the brilliant mind of Chef de Cuisine, Duncan Holmes. Although he’s been with Sons & Daughters for two and a half years, it wasn’t until this past year that chef/owners Teague Moriarty and Matt Mcnamara took a step back from the day-to-day work in the kitchen, allowing Chef Holmes to take the reigns. Although having a talented team behind the stoves and a dedicated garden in Los Gatos has helped, in my eyes it’s been the added influence of Chef Holmes that has pushed the cuisine to the next level.

Okay, already, let’s get into the food! It was too good to cut out any details, so buckle up because up – it’s lengthy, but worth it!

Monterey Sea Grapes Sons & Daughters

The first course kicked things off with, what else, Monterey Sea Grapes. Ahhhh yes, it reminded me of my high school days when I’d go to the lake for the day and pack myself a sandwich, some chips, and a big ol’ bag of sea grapes for lunch! Of course that’s completely ridiculous and untrue; I had no idea what sea grapes were until that night. But, you can understand why beginning with this made me chuckle. Turns out they’re a type of seaweed which, when placed atop a buttermilk, tapioca crisp alongside dehydrated green onion (powder) and creme fraiche, looks like a fun, inventive take on caviar. Most importantly, it was bright and tangy, bursting and crunching in ways that made me write, “BANG, POP, POW!” in my notes on the dish. Clearly, a great start to a long meal.

Buff Orpington Egg Sons & Daughters

What followed was yet an equally surprising explosion in my mouth: Buff Orpington Egg served with baby cherry belle radish, redwood clover, fava beans/greens, and miners lettuce. I know, it sounds like a lot of leaves and weeds with lofty names right? But, what they don’t mention is that the egg is slow-cooked (at 60°C for 2 hours), stripped of its whites, wrapped in pastry crust, and fried. Imagine a piece of shrimp tempura. Now take out the shrimp and add a rich, barely-cooked egg yolk. Okay, now try to imagine the joy you’d feel when you placed that little fried ball of wonder in your mouth and it burst like the most delicious bubble in the world. Throw in a few bites of fresh, crisp veggies to balance the richness of said egg bubble and you’ve got a perfect follow up to sea grapes. Simple only in appearance, clean, and contemporary.

Roasted Baby Beets Sons & Daughters

The Roasted, Baby Golden Beets followed, which were brilliantly paired with greek yogurt, Vadouvan spices, and fresh fenugreek…Once again I needed to be educated. Fenugreek, as I was informed, is an herb/spice common in South Indian and Middle Eastern cuisine, whose leaves and seeds have a certain bittersweet quality that pairs particularly well coriander, cumin, and paprika. Thus, a well-conceived addition to the chunky Vadouvan made up of dehydrated shallot, onion, turmeric, chili flakes, cloves, fenugreek, cumin, coriander, and yellow mustard seeds (pickled in raspberry vinegar). This dish was incredibly well thought out, taking a known flavor profile and updating it in a way that transformed conventional into unique. And the result was spot-on. The earthy, spicy tones tempered by the plain yogurt transported me to a bustling city in the Eastern Roman Empire – you know, the days of my childhood. All I know is this: I was completely blown away by this dish and never would’ve guessed that a beet would be my favorite savory dish of the night.

Local Halibut Sons & Daughters

Next out was Local Halibut with green garlic soup, baby turnip, and caviar (real, not sea grapes). Although I would’ve preferred my fish to be slightly less cooked for textural reasons, that’s just a personal preference, a minor note to what was a very tasty dish. Overall, it came off as a well-balanced mingling of flavors that were simultaneously pronounced (the saltiness of caviar, subdued spice of green garlic) and delicate.

They had another hit with their fifth course, Sunchoke with Maitake Mushroom and Roasted Garlic, with my notes reading, “Wow. Sunchoke. Nailed it.” It was earthy, rich, and so delicious that I completely forgot to snap a picture before devouring it in its entirety. Instead I can only show you a glimpse of their house-baked breads, which were devoured equally as fast.

Akaushi Beef Sons & Daughters

Finally, the Akaushi Beef, Seared Cauliflower, and Cippolini Onion was the final savory course of the meal. Despite it more traditional than most of the other dishes, it was really tasty in its simplicity. When meat is that good, why mess with it? By keeping it light and letting the beef shine, there were no problems finishing the plate, and no need to loosen my belt for dessert. It tasted familiar, classic, and as a final send-off to the bulk of the meal, left me feeling…comfortable.

Bergamot Curd Sons & Daughters

That comfort was quickly cast into the wind when I could barely understand any of the words describing the first dessert: Bergamot Curd, Sweet Woodruff Merinque, and New Yarrow. My first thought was, “THANK GOD THEY ADDED NEW YARROW. Old Yarrow would’ve been so trite, am I right? … … ” This was followed by a string of questions until I finally stopped caring so much about words and let the taste tell the story. That story was as bitter (grapefruit) as it was sweet; extremely aromatic, and a wonderful palate cleanser before the finale.

Geranium Dessert Sons & Daughters

The last dish, a send-off made of Geranium Ice Cream, White Chocolate, Wild Huckleberry, and Black Pepper, was equally as innovative as the rest of the meal, and to say the meal ended on a high note would be a gross understatement. This was one of the best desserts I have had in recent memory. My reaction was similar to the one I had after trying Melissa Chou’s desserts at Aziza for the first time: totally blown away. But, this dessert was so incredibly unique that it’s impossible for me to make any real comparisons. It was classically simple in composition, with just enough contrast in texture to keep things interesting. And the taste was both traditional (white chocolate + huckleberry), and unusual in that it tasted simultaneously green, like something from the garden, and sweet, with flavors that were so fresh and so clean that I now associate this restaurant with Outkast. No joke. It sent me home pretty shocked; after such an exemplary meal, this last course was hands-down my favorite dish of the evening.

Chocolate and pate de fruit – Sons & Daughters

To the guys in the kitchen I want to say, seriously, my hat’s off to you. Absolutely phenomenal from start to finish. It has been a very long time since I’ve felt so inspired by a meal, so I want to end by saying thank you for giving me such a moving culinary experience.

Sons and Daughters
708 Bush St
(between Powell St & Mason St)
San Francisco, CA 94108
(415) 391-8311
http://sonsanddaughterssf.com

The post Sons & Daughters: All Grown Up appeared first on KelsEats.

Over the years I’ve gone from never cooking for myself (college), to cooking all the time, to hardly ever cooking because I’m too lazy or tired. Now I’m about to go over the edge of laziness, where walking more than a block for food starts to bother me. Before I find myself ordering terrible Chinese food every night because it delivers to my doorstep and allows me to stay in my pajama pants for just a little longer, I’m putting the breaks on and making a point to cook more.

I’m also finally ready to start eating a wee bit healthier – a few solid nights of eating salads and veggies instead of Phat Philly onion rings and Serrano’s pizza is the plan. But I have one problem: I’m still pretty damn lazy and am easily deterred by long, involved recipes. “Long” and “involved” meaning longer than say 10-15 minutes. So what am I to do? Arugula and avocado salad. Boom.

Thanks to a friend in Los Angeles, who served it as a side during a recent visit, I discovered the simplest salad in the world: arugula and avocado….. ….. that’s just about it. This humble salad has really helped get me off to a good start. It’s so easy, and surprisingly tasty, that I’ve been eating it every day for about a week. The full list of ingredients is as follows:

Ingredients
Arugula
Avocado
Soft Goat Cheese (if you want)
Olive Oil
Lemon
Salt
Pepper

Making this is as easy as cutting the avocado into chunks, adding some crumbles of soft goat cheese (a log of Laura Chenel is what I keep in my fridge), dousing it with a good olive oil (not extra virgin, something light), and seasoning with lemon, salt, and pepper. Done in minutes!

I think the reason I’m hooked is actually the olive oil I use, which happens to be my all-time favorite olive oil. The name is Capezzana Olio Nuovo, a first-pressed olive oil (olio nuovo) that comes straight from Italy which I have to special order from my dad at Ital Foods. They only get this olive oil once every year, usually sometime in late November/early decemeber, but orders are placed in October in order to guarantee a bottle – it sells out quickly. But, because Amazon is the man, you can just find it online. It’s hard for me to describe olive oils, so suffice to say its light on the tongue, bright green, grassy, intense in olive flavor, and meant to be used as a finishing oil (not in hot pans), which makes it perfect for this salad. Screw measuring out a tablespoon to watch your figure! With this and other olive oils like it, pour it on until you’re good and goddamn ready to stop.

Enjoy!

The post The Fastest, Easiest Salad Recipe in History appeared first on KelsEats.

Sadly, 2013 isn’t off to the best start. Why? Because one of my all-time favorite restaurants is changing, and in the process, dying. Mr. Pollo may not be closing, but with the recent, shall we say, “Hostile Takeover” of the space and the departure of the heart of the restaurant, Chef Manny Torres Gimenez, it’s certainly the end of an era (more details to follow soon, in a separate write-up). The Mr. Pollo we’ve all loved over the last three years is essentially gone, which means one thing’s for sure: it looks like I will be arepa’d no more.

It’s hard to believe that, despite its popularity and nation-wide press coverage, changes that would drastically affect the quality of the food and the character of the restaurant could occur so suddenly. But alas, in roughly the span of a month the decision to overturn control to Chef Johnny was made, and the man who built it up from nothing was kicked to the curb. The silver lining is that Chef Manny has already opened another restaurant 5 doors down from Mr. Pollo, on the same block, and will be serving a soup, salad, and two pasta courses for $20 Monday-Saturday for lunch and dinner. The space is called Roxy’s, a smoothie and sandwich shop previously only open for lunch. It may not be the Venezualan-esque cuisine we’re all accustomed to, fear not! Most of his professional experience has been cooking in high-end Italian restaurants, so the food won’t disappoint. Oh yeah, and word on the street is that Chef Manny might be bringing an arepa machine with him when he returns from a holiday vacation, so we may still be able to experience his A-Game.

But back to Mr. Pollo. If you’ve visited in the last month, you may not have really realized the changeover: Johnny’s tattoos and backwards cap was behind the stoves in the three months prior to the shakeup, assisting Chef Manny in his role as sous; the menu and prices haven’t fundamentally changed much at all because, rather than messing with a good thing, Johnny has kept the heart of the menu the same, but makes sure to leave his mark by featuring his obscenely large signature on the daily menu that’s taped to the window; and the decor is still as “rugged” as ever, with a few duct-tape touch ups here and there.

However, if you’re anything like me, a person born with taste buds, you may have noticed a marked decline in the quality of the food being served. Yes, okay, you can still order a good arepa, but don’t expect the magic of Chef Manny’s 4-course tasting menu. Prior to the turnover, I tried Johnny’s tasting menu on a night when he was flying solo, so I’ve gotten the full experience of what is essentially the new Mr. Pollo. All four members of my party agreed – it wasn’t just bad for Mr. Pollo, it was terrible for anywhere. Since I wasn’t very motivated to commit the details to memory, I won’t describe each course, but the first one sums it up. On a very cold, very windy night in San Francisco, with a wicked draft coming in from the broken door which couldn’t be closed, and no heat action from the stoves warming the room, Johnny starts us off with cold soup. Because nothing says “Welcome” like keeping your food and guests at the same, ice-cold temperature. I want to say it was with watermelon and tomato, but frankly I took one bite and immediately stopped eating it or thinking about it any further. The best part? Following it up with another cold dish, equally as disappointing. I mean, Venezuelan and Californian Cuisine is all about bland soups and long winters…right?

My second experience with his cooking was lackluster as well, a major issue with seasoning, which actually led me to say something to Chef Manny in hopes that the feedback could help them avoid potential complaints. I add that detail because, hell, sometimes it’s hard enough finding the balls to voice criticisms of a dish directly to an Executive Chef, so it’s not every day that I go out of my way to share my concerns about his sous. Unfortunately, it was too late for improvement – the plot had been laid, a business arrangement had been made behind Chef Manny’s back, and the wheels were already in motion for this side-kick to takeover the stoves. I’m not sharing the details of this story in this particular post to avoid sounding too biased due to drama, gossip, or my personal opinion of the people involved. This one is about the food.

Here’s what it all boils down to: Unless you find yourself in the area, desperately craving an arepa, I wouldn’t suggest going to Mr. Pollo. Because the menu was created almost single-handedly, ad-hoc, and changed every single day, the restaurant was really an extension of the chef himself; Chef Manny was Mr. Pollo. Now, it’s no longer the same restaurant, and the food is simply not that great.

Mr. Pollo
2823 Mission St
(between 24th St & 25th St)
San Francisco, CA 94110
(415) 374-5546

The post Big Changes at Mr. Pollo Spell Trouble appeared first on KelsEats.

Onion Rings from Phat Philly

It’s true that I go out to eat very often. More often than most. Because of this, many of the people around me have this misconception that I’m very picky and only go to “fancy” places (translation: restaurants where a complete meal for 2 will cost upwards of $100). But what they don’t realize is that when I’m not going out to “fancy” restaurants, I’m not preparing seasonal salads and roasted veggies. No, no, in reality I’m incredibly lazy, which means I secretly stuff my face with cheap, unrefined, unhealthy foods.

And I’m not even talking about a wide range of fatty mcfat foods either! Nah, I like to hone in on one thing that really hits the spot, and then eat it on an almost daily basis for a good month or two; a food that, at some point, has stopped just being a temptation and has become an actual problem. I call these my “problem foods” and, since the first step to recovery is admitting that you have a problem, I’m shedding light on my issues with this first post of my new “Uncontrollable Craving” series.

Problem #1: Phat Philly Onion Rings

Oh. My. God. Why, god, why are these so perfect? So perfectly crispy. Dipped in enough batter to thoroughly coat each onion but not leave it thick and chewy. Not too hot, not too cold. With onions cut to just the right width so that they don’t completely come out in your first bite.

More importantly, why must they be located a mere 1/2 a block from my home? I mean, just knowing that they’re there…only a minute away…waiting by a side of ranch dressing…telling to me to come over and pick them up even though I’ve already had dinner…whispering softly to me, “Kelsey, just pick up an order and call it dessert.” And I listen. Even though deep down I know that deep fried onion rings shouldn’t be a replacement for a cookie, I still listen. I don’t think anyone understands how heavy a burden this has been on my ability to maintain any semblance of self-control and keep a reasonably healthy diet. I’ve been listening to them for well over a month now, and last night, when the sight of a bowl of arugula tossed with nothing more than some olive oil and carrot made my mouth water, I knew that it was time to slow my onion ring roll.

Since I knew I would be taking little break from this indulgence, I finally asked the guys at Phat Philly what on earth makes them so good. The answer made it all clear: the beer used in the beer batter is Blue Moon. What?! Who uses Blue Moon just for deep frying onions? Phat Philly, that’s who. Turns out, Blue Moon also happens to be my go-to beer, the first that I ever really liked, so it’s no wonder why I’m so struck by these ones in particular.

Also, the people running Phat Philly have a great sense of humor, so walking in to pick the onion rings up is very entertaining. They prominently display decor like a framed Fresh Prince of Belair family photo, sidewalk signs that say, “We don’t give a fuck, and neither should you,” and a poster on the bathroom door with a picture of Larry David essentially asking people not to make a mess in a more colorful terms (see picture below). They certainly don’t put up a barrier to dissuade you from indulging your cravings. Could their humor and laid back approach contribute to the quality of their onion rings? Eh, it probably just comes down to heat, technique, and the batter, but it makes me happy to think that there’s a more intangible element that gives them their power over me.

It’s been one day, and so far I’ve been able to resist. We’ll see how long this lasts…

Phat Philly
3388 24th St
San Francisco, CA 94110
(415) 550-7428
http://www.phat-philly.com

The post Onion Rings at Phat Philly: Uncontrollable Craving #1 appeared first on KelsEats.

It’s November. That time of the year when the leaves have faded from golden orange to yellows and browns, when roasted squash begins popping up on menus across the city, and when you can finally feel that late autumn chill in the San Francisco wind. That special time of the year that makes me want to talk about…sandwiches.

I don’t know about you, but in my world, it’s always sandwich season. Unfortunately, there seem to be fewer and fewer occasions where I’m truly blown away by this ubiquitous food. I’ve had to ask myself, “Have I tried every deli sandwich that appeals to my sensibilities? Every Panini (well, actually every panino? Bahn Mi? Every Cubano?” I mean, I’ve been eating sandwiches on the regular my entire life, what’s really left to impress?

Salumeria. That’s what.

So what’s so special? Well, let’s see…it’s not just the fact that they cure their own meats – although that helps. It’s not because they change their menu selections daily so that on any given day you can have anything from coppa, to lonza, to rabbit sausage, or roast beef. And unlike many other specialty shops, there’s no one “signature” sandwich, or a “create your own” menu, that will keep you coming back for more. Honestly, what makes these sandwiches special for me (yes, sandwichES plural), is the fact that they’re ALL so damn good! There’s not really any clear-cut headlining sandwich that plays as the main act, and there’s not a single sandwich that, hands down, steals the show. In other words, I find myself at Salumeria without a craving for anything in particular; I’ve never driven by and thought, “Hmmmmmm, you know what sounds good? A sandwich stuffed with Mortadella…on a potato roll.” No, instead I pop in whenever I’m on my way home and think, “Man, I want a sandwich.”

That’s what makes Salumeria special. Every element of every sandwich is well-made or well-sourced, and the way in which the pieces are bundled together is…well…impressive enough to inspire me to write about sandwiches. After just two months, I’m confident that I can pick absolutely anything on the menu and I’ll be satisfied.

Why so cocky in my assertion? Because, frankly, in roughly 8 weeks, Salumeria is 6 for 6 – and I’ve got the photos to prove it.

If those photos don’t spark any primal cravings for a mighty, meaty sandwich, well then you must have a lump of coal for a stomach. But to all of my fellow sandwich lovers out there, I say to you: Why are you still reading?! STOP this nonsense and head over to Salumeria immediately.

Salumeria
3000 20th St
(between Alabama St & Florida St)
San Francisco, CA 94110
(415) 471-2998
http://www.salumeriasf.com/

The post The Story of Salumeria and the Mighty Sandwich appeared first on KelsEats.

Yoon Ha – Dining & Beverage Director of Benu, Master Sommelier

No matter how long you’ve lived in this area, if you call San Francisco “Home” then let’s just admit it: we’re really lucky. Anyone who shares my passion for food and feels a constant craving for culinary exploration (…I suddenly feel like a cross between Magellan and KD Lang…) is well aware of how lucky we are to be in such a gastro-centric city. Much like how amazing attractions like Alcatraz or Giants games get taken for granted because they’re are so many amazing things to do here, it’s easy to overlook just how lucky we are. It’s rare to take a step back and think, “Whoa, buying goats milk butter for my day-to-day needs is not normal. That’s pretty cool.” For me, one of those wake-up calls came when I was introduced to the man I consider the finest sommelier I’ve ever known. His name is Yoon Ha, he works at Benu, and let me tell you my friends, he is one of the finest industry all-stars you’ll ever meet.

“You’ll notice juicy blackberry and boysenberry with hints of dried currant” will never be a sentence that comes out of Yoon’s mouth. The whole snobby, uptight “wine-know-it-all” personality is completely eliminated from all of Yoon’s interactions with customers, despite completely being a “wine-know-it-all”. I say that in the most loving way possible. Yoon has the honor of being a Master Sommelier, number 197 in the world. An honor that took years of study and is only given to the most passionate, dedicated people in the business. Suffice to say, this man would be considered a “wine snob” by most.

However, his approach to wine and relating it to the customer is a rare, rare entity. Rather than listing 10 adjectives to describe the beverage he’s pouring, which mean absolutely nothing to a novice wine appreciando, he tells the complete story behind each of his choices. And, he describes the flavors of each pairing in such an approachable way that even the most inexperienced diner can understand where he’s coming from and grasp what he’s tasting in each pour. For example, rather than describing a sake as somewhat floral and aromatic, or a bit on the dry side, he’ll tell you about the place where it’s made – a distillery (if that’s the correct term) at 12,000 ft. in elevation, in the mountains of Japan, where only the purest mountain water is used in the distillation process. A place that doesn’t use man-made bacterial cultures in the fermentation process, but has chosen to dedicate an entire room (and therefore, much more money) to creating the perfect environment for cultures to grow naturally and consistently. There are no flavor adjectives in that description, and aren’t you already excited to taste it? Don’t you already feel luxurious in simply having the chance to have a sip of what he’s describing?

You’ll notice that I described a sake pairing – not something not a traditional choice for a wine pairing. Which is yet another thing that makes Yoon special – he’s not afraid to venture outside of what’s “normal.” And, his palate is so good that you’ll never be let down by, say, a beer or sake pairing. For example, recently with the Lobster Xiao Long Bao (one of the standard offerings on the tasting menu), he went outside the comfort zone and paired this dish with a sour ale – not what I was expecting. But the sour, umami aspects of the beer went so perfectly with the vinegar puddled below the dumplings that it actually elevated the flavor of an already delicious dish to a new level. A moment of personal joy that I couldn’t have experienced without his particular selection.

But, of course, it’s not just the experimental pairings that have pushed me to the verge of tears in the middle of a meal (and yes, Yoon has made me break down). My first “Oh My F!@#King God” moment came from a more “standard” pairing – a Reisling Kabinett (Langwerth von Simmern, Erbacher Marcobrunn, Rheingau, Germany 2007) paired with Monkfish Liver Torchon served with cucumber and salted plum. The first time I had this pairing was so incredible that I actually returned the next night to order the same thing (a rare decision for a restaurant like Benu, I’m sure). The next night I ordered this dish off of the a la carte menu and demanded the same wine pairing, unaware that it would be served with kumquat. This slight change threw the pairing off so completely that I actually voiced my disappointment, not expecting anything to come of it. But, because the staff at Benu are such rockstars, they actually sent out the tasting menu version that I had tried the night before, and once again, magic was in the air and I caught a glimpse of that perfect trifecta of wine, main ingredient, and secondary flavors. It was then that I truly realized how special Yoon’s palate is – the slightest change to the dish, from cucumber to kumquat, changed the pairing completely and had I not demanded the same pairing, something more suitable would have been poured.

Blah, blah, blah, highfalutin wine lingo, blah blah blah – what it comes down to is Yoon is a true wine master. So much so that he carries a wine katana at his side at all times and can call forth the power of the wine gods using their ancient, lost language. Obviously this isn’t true, but you get the picture.

Yoon – caramel corn clearly isn’t enough to thank you for giving me some of my most memorable dining moments. I’ll have to upgrade to late-night In-and-Out burgers to truly express my gratitude…

The post The Industry All-Stars: Yoon Ha appeared first on KelsEats.

Rating: 5 out of 5 stars

I’m a very lucky girl. Not only do I have one of the coolest, kickin’, Sicilian grandmas the world has ever known, I also have a cool, kickin’ grandma who happens to live in St. Helena. So, for me a trip to grandma’s house is extra special because not only do I get to spend quality time with her, I also get to refine my wine palate in the downtime…and get a little tipsy in the process.

In the last three years I’ve visited many of the lesser-known, excellent wineries in the area and have fallen in love with many of those found along Spring Mountain. Most of these wineries are small productions, each with their own specialty wines that can be difficult to find if you’re not a member of their wine club or on their mailing list. Almost all of them also require you to make an appointment for a tasting well in advance, and charge a fee large enough to scare off visitors who aren’t particularly serious about their wine. Luckily, I’m a very, very serious person, and I also happen to know that any high-priced fee can be waived when you purchase a bottle. Drink up! Because of this, I stumbled onto what is now my favorite winery in Napa: Behrens Family Winery, previously known as Behrens and Hitchcock.

Almost everything about this winery sets it apart. First of all, you instantly know that this place is kind of a big deal the second you pull into the property and are met with one of the most spectacular views of the valley any vineyard has to offer. And you can enjoy it for as long as you’d like! After a tasting, I like to take a seat at their wonderful picnic area, munch on the pepperoni, salami, and various cheeses that I purchased from the Napa Valley Olive Oil Company earlier, pour a glass of my newly purchased wine, and stare out over my empire. It is my empire. I don’t care what you say. It’s mine, and you can’t have it.

The tasting itself is easily the least pretentious, down-to-earth experience you can imagine. If you’re into a lot of pomp and circumstance, this isn’t the place for you. If you prefer a more low-key experience that keeps things personal and limits the number of people per tasting to six, Behrens is your dream. For starters, it all goes down within the cozy, air-conditioned interior of a restored, vintage camper trailer. Well, a 1947 Westcraft trailer to be exact. Yep, that’s right, get ready to take a load off on some comfy, cushioned sofa seats and huddle around the built-in dinette that may give you flashbacks of that camping trip with your Aunt and Uncle Hippie. What makes it extra cool is that it wasn’t some abandoned trailer that Extreme Home Makeover re-purposed to make it work with the landscape – the owners (Lisa Drinkward and Les Behrens) found it somewhere in Alameda and hauled it all the way back to Spring Mountain because, well, it’s perfect.

Your guide on this adventure is a straight-shootin, wine-lovin’, die-hard Yankees fan named Robin who has “New Yorker” written all over her. She’s also a big part of why I love this winery. Robin has been doing this for quite awhile and has a very relaxed style in walking you through the wines, which makes everyone feel instantly at ease. And, she speaks to you as if you’re already a part of the family. Being an avid wine collector herself, she describes every wine on the list in a way that’s totally approachable even for those new to the whole wine tasting experience. And while she may have her own opinions on what she tastes in each wine, or which she prefers, she doesn’t assert them in an intimidating way that makes you shy away from expressing your own thoughts; she lets you discover each wine on your own and form your own opinions. Finally, take advantage of the time you spend with Robin and tap her for all the information you can get! She can tell you all about the history of the winery, the people involved, recommend wines or wineries in the area according to your tastes, and can chat at length about the wine making process, the Napa Valley region, its vineyards and producers, or baseball. Really, if you have a question, she’ll have an answer.

And last but not least, the wines. The wines are phenomenal. Les Behrens has a truly special talent for taking varietals from all different vineyards and creating blends that are completely unique both from other wineries, and from one another. On my most recent visit, I purchased a juicy, fruity wine that I could open tomorrow (Spare Me), as well as a velvety, rich mountain Cab (Labor of Love), a spicy, smokey, winery-only Syrah/Cab (Resurrection), and my favorite, a full-bodied, black-fruit, tannic Cab blend called the Heavyweight. Clearly with even those short descriptions, you can see that the flavor profiles vary dramatically. But all of them will undoubtedly excite your taste-buds and tempt you to buy far, far more wine than you had prepared for.

If you’re planning a full day of tastings, I’d suggest putting Behrens Family Winery first on your list so, well frankly, that you’re not too drunk to miss the subtleties of each of their wines. You’ll appreciate the whole experience much more, trust me. And if you happen to schedule a tasting because of this write-up, feel free to say “thank you” by sending a bottle of The Heavyweight to:

P.O. Box 2212
My Mouth Street
My Empire, CA 94110

Behrens Family Winery
4078 Spring Mountain Road
St. Helena CA 94574
Phone 707.963.1774
Fax 707.963.8206
http://behrensfamilywinery.com

Tastings by appointment: Robin@BehrensFamilyWinery.com

The post Drinkin’ Wine and Actin’ Classy at Behrens Family Winery appeared first on KelsEats.

Rating: 5 out of 5 stars

You know what I find most exciting about dining out? It’s not the dressing up, or chatting with industry folk, or even laughing with close friends. It’s the unknown. Whether it’s not knowing what’s on the menu before walking in the door, ordering a tasting menu dotted with unexpected treats, or flying blind and leaving my meal in the hands of the chef, the things that take me by surprise are the things that stand out the most. So, rather being a regular at certain restaurants because of one or two particular dishes that keep them coming back for more, I keep going back to my favorite restaurants because I have no idea what will be on the menu next – they all constantly evolve, and there is no better example of evolution than Aziza.

Anyone who has dined at Aziza in recent years knows that, other than its location, the restaurant has undergone some radical changes. The menu moved away from being tied to traditional Moroccan food to one which embraced California cuisine from a Moroccan angle. What that means, in less generic language, is that less emphasis was put on staying true to the exact ingredients necessary to create traditional Moroccan flavors and more was put into building a Moroccan flavor profile using local, seasonal ingredients. Little by little, this shift in philosophy transformed the restaurant’s cuisine into what I fell in love with (and wrote about) back in April of last year. Now, over one year later, I’m compelled to write again because, after 10 years, the evolution is still happening: portions are more refined, the proportion of each ingredient on the plate is more balanced, the presentation is, well, exquisite, and the food itself? Let me tell you, it’s only getting better.

After a year of ordering a la carte, I finally stopped screwing around and ordered the complete tasting menu. All 13 courses…plus an additional dish from the menu…plus an extra dessert. Yeah, okay, so I pigged out! I don’t care because at only $95 per person, it’s beyond just a good deal. Because of my familiarity with the restaurant, I was expecting it to be amazing. But, I didn’t think it would be so good that it would make me cry. Damnit Aziza! You made me cry! And no, I wasn’t drunkenly gushing. No no, instead I kept my dignity and opted for a silent tear, maybe two, that not only encapsulated how incredible the food was that evening, but also how incredible the food has been every time I’ve gone. Rather than go through every single dish represented in those tiny drops of water, I want to focus on the recent highlights.

The first four courses alone make ordering the tasting menu a no-brainer. Starting with, oh sweet Jesus, the chilled Asparagus Soup with Peas and Lemon Verbena! I wish that instead of two bites I could’ve ordered two gallons to bring home and eat until I turned green – and even then I don’t think I’d ever get sick of it. A silky smooth asparagus puree poured over a base of some of the most succulent peas you’ve ever seen, which were resting beneath a lemon verbena foam. When mixed together, the texture of the puree and foam became as airy as a cloud – a magical, spring vegetable cloud whose lightness was broken up by the juicy pop of peas! Easily the best soup of this past spring.

The Quail Egg, Chicken Crackling, and radish that followed was fatty, in that melt-in-your-mouth bacon fat kinda way, but salty, fresh, crunchy, soft, and squishy all in a single bite. Whenever I think about it, all that I hear in my head is, “Now That’s how you do cracklin’.”

Quail Egg, Chicken Crackling, and Radish

My taste buds were further intrigued by the third appetizer, the Coconut Panna Cotta with caviar, chive blossom, and shaved brown truffle. The tropical notes of the coconut paired with delicate hints of onion from the chive blossom, which was then mixed with the earthiness of truffle, created a taste that I’ve never experienced before. It actually left me feeling confused. Despite questions of “huh?” or “Wait, hang on…what?!”, I knew that I liked it, and I knew that I wanted more. Also…what? there’s such a thing as a brown truffle? Apparently so. And when shaved it resembles the texture of coconut? Good to know…

Coconut Panna Cotta with caviar, chive blossom, and shaved brown truffle

Okay, enough already. Let’s talk Game Birds.

I am not using hyperbole when I say that Aziza consistently does poultry, specifically quail and squab, better than any other restaurant out there. I tend to avoid these birds because 95% of the time they’re so overcooked that they’re difficult to swallow – a feeling that I’ve never liked or grown accustomed to. Before Aziza I thought a succulent piece of quail was just a myth, a thing of legend that’s rumored to surface every 200 years, but only for so brief a moment that no living soul has ever been fortunate enough to trap it and eat it. But, thanks to Aziza, I know that the existence of such a creature is no myth! The meat on these tiny birds is served so red, so moist, and so tender that I can’t help but be baffled by how many kitchens get it wrong. People, it’s real, and I make a point of selecting an entree that features one of my delicious feathered friends every time I dine at Aziza.

Finally, I know this article is long, but I hope you’ve saved room for Dessert because, it doesn’t just deserve your attention, it deserves a standing ovation. I had no problem saying it a year ago and I’ll say it again, right now Melissa Chou is one of the country’s greatest talents in the world of pastry. And as of this year, she can back that statement up with her nomination as one of five James Beard finalists for her category. Watch out for her people – she’s young, talented, getting noticed, and when it comes down to it, just kickin ass and takin names.

Alright, jeez Kelsey, enough sucking up already! Let me explain why I’m on Team Chou. I find that my favorite desserts, the ones that really make you sit back in your chair and just smirk while you chew, are those where there is an incredible amount of attention placed on texture. I thought I could describe texture pretty intelligently before meeting Melissa – let’s see there’s soft in an ice cream sort of way, crunchy like a wafer, airy like a foam, squishy like a marshmallow, etc…But Melissa can take the word “creamy” and identify all of the sub-categories of textures found in “creamy.” For example, she could better describe “creamy” as “milky, buttery, soft, smooth, velvety” on one hand, and “light, fluffy, cottony, feathered, silky, and spongey” on the other. Thinking in such minute terms allows her to incorporate a myriad of textural elements in her dessert, which go beyond cliches and delight your palate. Or if you’re like me, you may see broken pieces of graham cracker-like chocolate, topped with some kind of chocolate shavings, all nestled underneath a giant a mound of toasted meringue and move from delight to fond nostalgia thinking, “Wow! This is just like certain levels of Dinosaur Land in Super Mario Brothers!”

She also looks out of the box when choosing ingredients, taking advantage of anything in season, or even sometimes out of season, that can provide a balance of sweet, tart, and salty. Her extensive use of green strawberries (picked out of season before they ripen and become too sweet) is one way she puts a bit of pucker on the plate. Or finding inspiration in common summer ingredients like corn and stone fruit to make a corn Bavarian balanced beautifully with an apricot sorbet and caramel. Her innovative desserts embody the restaurant’s philosophy of picking the best local, seasonal ingredients available at the time and making them into something familiar, yet completely out of the box. So, no matter how full you may be after hours of gluttony, you must, and I mean MUST order dessert – even if its just for one bite.

With all of the amazing things I can say about Aziza, this “essay” could easily become a 20 page report. So, rather than drowning you with more detail, I’ll conclude on this note: I’m head over heels in love with Aziza, and I know that once you make that first reservation, you will be too.

Aziza
5800 Geary Boulevard
San Francisco, CA 94121
(415) 752-2222
http://www.aziza-sf.com

The post Aziza: An Essay on Evolution, Tears, Game Birds, and Super Mario Desserts appeared first on KelsEats.

Locanda Church Cocktail - photo credit: sfgate.com

Anyone who has met me, or who has read my writing, knows that this girl loves a great cocktail. However, it’s rare that I’m so moved by some particular drink that I’m compelled to dedicate an entire article to singing its praises. This is one of those occasions.

The Church, currently on Locanda’s cocktail menu, is the perfect summer drink. Made with gin, aperol, cocchi americano, and lemon, it’s a taste I had never experienced until recently – probably because I was unfamiliar with 50% of the ingredients. The gin and lemon, obviously. Anyway, after returning three times within one month just to order as many as I possibly can, I now officially rank it as one of my all-time favorite drinks. Why? Because it’s refreshing without being cliche, substantial without being too heavy, and chalk full of alcohol without being unbalanced.

This cocktail doesn’t reek of gin, nor does it taste similar to your standard “refreshing” drinks like a basil gimlet or something girly mixed with Prosecco and St. Germaine. No, this is an original – one that anyone, no matter what your hard liquor preferences may be, would find appealing. It’s just like a cool breeze on a hot summer’s day, if a cool breeze got you drunk.

Enjoy it while you can.

Locanda
557 Valencia St
(between 16th St & 17th St)
San Francisco, CA 94110
(415) 863-6800
http://www.locandasf.com

The post The Church Cocktail at Locanda – Drink Up appeared first on KelsEats.